Gorillas in the mist

This morning we set off early to the gorilla trekking base camp in Kinigi. After splitting into small groups we piled into a 4-wheel drive and bounced around the horrendous roads as far as could, then got out and walked up the volcano. After only about half an hour, I suddenly felt really faint and ill. My legs turned to jelly, I saw stars, I thought my stomach was going to explode. I thought I was going to have to turn back: I was only at the base of the volcano and already felt ill, we had at least an hour trekking in front of us at a much steeper grade than we had climbed so far. The guide told me to sit down, and after resting a few minutes and splashing cold water on my face and neck I felt much better. I got up again and started walking at the front of the group, much more slowly, with rests every few minutes.




The views from the volcano were incredible - we were surrounded by volcanic peaks and lush, thick vegetation. We climbed carefully, in addition to the altitude the prickly stinging nettles went straight through our clothes. What seemed like a very short time later, we turned a corner and came face to face with an enormous mountain gorilla! We spent an hour with the gorillas scrambling down the volcano through the nettles in a game of cat and mouse with the giant animals. The group we encountered had four babies - a couple of them played games running in circles around us and peeking out from the trees long enough for us to catch up with them before charging downhill again.


one of the babies, peering through the brush at me

Just as we were about to leave, the silverback (or chief) of the family stampeded down the volcano and stopped directly in front of us.